I have professed my love for Michel Richard's Happy in the Kitchen on this site several
times. One
particular dish that I found visually arresting in the book was the contrast of rosy, pink lamb loin crusted with bright green, fried basil. I decided to give this technique a go, but went with the natural combination of mint and lamb instead of basil.
The first attempt at crusting the lamb with fried mint was a bit tricky. As you can see in the pictures, it was difficult to get the crust to adhere to the lamb. The general process is to fry the mint, puree it with a bit of bread crumbs, then egg wash the lamb and apply the crust. I chose to sear the lamb, then egg wash, crust it, and finish the cooking in the oven. Searing it first may have made the crust application more difficult. But I was apprehensive about crusting the raw lamb and losing the vibrant green mint color while it roasted for a long time in the oven. Hmmm.
I've yet to perfect the presentation, but it has tons of potential. The crust adds a crispy texture, and most importantly, explodes with a concentrated, fresh burst of mint with each bite of lamb.
The other experiment here was the celery root cake. After reading Richard's book, you'll quickly learn about forming an ingredient in plastic wrap, sometimes freezing it to ensure it holds its form.
Pureed celery root is smooth and silky. After
boiling it, I set out to puree it with a thickener of a blond rioux - butter and flour just cooked together until thick. I let the mixture cool, formed it into little cakes, then lightly dredged the cakes in flour. (In retrospect, I would have made the cakes thicker and more compact). I wrapped them in cellophane and froze them for a few hours to form. A day would have been best, but I didn't have the time. I took the cakes out of the freezer and immediately dropped them in oil for a quick fry - just to form them and get them a bit golden. The inside was warm and soft, the exterior was crunchy and had a nice texture. The creamy celery root was the sole flavor, which was a nice foil for the lamb yet mellow enough to compliment the intensity of the mint crust.
I probably could have used a sauce here - maybe something bright and vibrant like a mint oil, or even a simple jus. The fried shallots were a nice bonus garnish.
I certainly have not aced this dish or the techniques involved as of yet, but wanted to share it with you regardless. A work in progress is rarely worth filing away, in my opinion.
Related: Mint Crusted Tuna




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