foodie nyc

Kafir Lime Steamed Halibut, Arugula Ginger Shells

You may remember my recent experiment with lavender infused cod.  On a night when a light dinner was sorely needed, I thought about that lavender steamed fish and decided to steam halibut with a few aromatic leaves of kafir lime.

Kafir lime leaves have perfect qualities for steaming.  Their flavor profile is distinct and potent, yet also lend almost a light, refreshing, floral quality that matches perfectly with a white fleshed fish like halibut.

Steaming with kafir couldn't be easier.   Start with some boiling water, drop a few kafir leaves in, place your seasoned halibut filets in a steam tray above the water (I used a mesh strainer) and a covered lid.   That's it.   

The kafir lime literally permeates every single morsel of the halibut, which ultimately necessitates for little else to  accompany the steamed fish.   I was looking to accent the kafir with herbaciousness and a peppery sharpness.   

I blanched some argula leaves and a few whole chunks of ginger, then juiced them in the juicer I talk about frequently.   After the pasta was cooked, I mixed it with the arugula ginger juice, creating a light yet explosive bed of  pasta for the fish.   I fried some leeks for some  much needed texture. 

In the future, I will consider pairing steamed kafir fish with a very simply flavored pasta or grain.   Maybe nothing  more than a nugget of butter, an herb and a spicy citrus note.   The steamed kafir flavor can certainly be the star of the show - it's that remarkable.

My Underwear Drawer, Pressed and Neatly Folded

Sorry for the delay in getting the results of my recent summer menu experimentations posted.   I've been drinking heavily and pondering the wonders of the legend that is Kenny Loggins.   (If you haven't listened to Foot Loose recently...um...don't.)

So, where were we.   I gave you the results of a brainstorm I had before making dinner for friends, with the goal of showing you how I developed a menu, and how the final results would compare with my original plans.

As expected, I had to adjust my menu based on ingredients available at the market, additional ideas I had while cooking, and finally, the reality that I needed to dial back my own ambition in order to get dinner out before midnight.

My original brainstorm ideas are located here.   All in all, I was happy with where I landed.    Pretty much all of the dishes were tasty, but what I generally look for when cooking spontaneously is to land on a core concept that can be tweaked and refined in the future.   Below is a recap of each dish and how/why the final dish evolved from my original intention.

Bloody Mary-ish Gazpacho 

My original idea was to express a single fruit in four ways.   I went with the tomato, which I realize was sort of obvious.   But the morning of the dinner party, I had a Bloody Mary on my mind.    I decided I would make a gazpacho as the base of the dish, with tons of fresh horseradish, celery and black pepper.    My second texture of tomato would be a yellow tomato gelee.  I'd make a puree of tomato, celery, horseradish and mix it with gelatin and let it cool for a few hours.   Finally, I made a tomato confit, which was essentially sliced tomatoes simmered in olive oil at 200 degrees for about three hours.   Hiding underneath the yellow tomato gelee is a slice of smoked mozzarella.  The smoky creaminess really brought the dish together.   In retrospect, I would have added cayenne to the dish for a spicier note.

Shiso Juice Ceviche 

This idea came to a grinding halt when I  became  beyond pissed and frustrated that I couldn't buy lobster anywhere near my apartment.   So I bagged the shiso, which would have required effort I couldn't muster at the time.    I decided to create little bites of ceviche as canapes for the guests as they arrived.   After buying some fresh salmon and tuna, I went completely off-the-cuff on this one, only creating the combinations in the kitchen just before serving.    For the salmon, I aimed for refreshing.    Salmon and avocado was a natural match, as was a bit of diced cucumber for texture.   Olive oil and lemon juice rounded out the flavors.   

For the tuna ceviche,  I wanted to pair the fattiness of tuna with a drizzle of truffle oil, a sprinkle of Parmigiano Reggiano, and a dice of celery.   I had never seen or tasted these flavors paired with raw tuna, so I was going with instinct on this one.   Italians all over the world most likely rolled in their graves as I presented this dish, but the cheese and tuna really worked.  I thought this was a bit of a breakthrough combination, at least in my world.

Peach Mac and Cheese

I stayed very true to my original idea with the peach mac and cheese.   I made a bechamel with Parm Regg, half and half, a bit of white wine and flour.  After the bechamel came together,  I folded in a fresh peach puree.   I simply combined the mac with the bechamel, covered the top in bread crumbs, more Parm and broiled before serving.   I was incredibly behind schedule at this point, so I didn't give the crust enough time or attention.    The peach added a fruitiness that cut through the richness of the bechamel, but didn't cross the line of sweetness that one would imagine when picturing these flavors in their head.     A crustier texture on the mac and cheese would have added another level to to the dish and made it an ace, in my opinion.   

Lobster Wellington

My original intention was to stick very close to the Wellington in appearance.  I was going to wrap pastry around large pieces of lobster, corn kernels and a lobster mousse.  But again, I was behind schedule and needed to improvise in order to expedite dinner.    I decided to eliminate the construction of the Wellington and do everything a bit free form.   I'd bake the puff pastry separately, make a raw corn tarragon puree, eliminate the mousse and juice corn to act as a sauce for the dish.     The lobster was steeped in boiling water, shells removed, then finished in a bit of butter and wine.   Overall,  the dish was excellent but I was disappointed that I didn't get to experiment with the Wellington presentation.   But like all ideas, being nimble and open to progression landed on a dish that I thought was worthy of the effort.  Corn and lobster is a perfect pairing to me.

I enjoyed showing you the before and after of the planning and cooking process in my bizarrely unorganized world.    Hopefully I can do another post based on this theme before the summer ends.

(PS - Thanks to Laren, Frankie and Mere for the pictures.  I was too involved to shoot the dishes as I usually do).

Original and Related Post:  Showing You My Underwear Drawer

Showing You My Underwear Drawer: Pre-Dinner Menu Brainstorm

I'm feeling a bit feisty today, so I thought we'd try something new on this site.

I recently brainstormed a few interesting  summer focused menu ideas, many of which I've never made, seen or tasted before.   Since these ideas are the results of a brainstorm, they weren't researched at all.   My goal was to let my creativity and instincts form rough menu ideas that could be fleshed out in the future.

For your amusement, I thought I'd show you the output of my brainstorm in advance of me actually making these dishes.   

This Sunday, August 12, I plan to actual make these dishes for the first time.   I'll post pictures and results of the dishes next week.

I think this could be an interesting way for you to see how a dish goes from concept to reality in my world. You'll be able to see how I start thinking about a dish, then see how it evolves into a finished plate.  For instance, you'll see that I may need to make adjustments as I research my preparation techniques and cooking plans.   I will most likely be inspired by other ingredients at the markets.  As I actually cook and prepare the dishes, I may decide to make adjustments based on instinct. 

My hope is that giving you a peek at my starting point will make the final dishes I post even more interesting for you.

Foodie NYC  Menu Brainstorm
A Random Summer Sunday Dinner
August 12, 2007

Four Textures of Fruit

This idea would feature four expressions of a single fruit.  I picture a Napoleon of sorts, with a layer of the raw fruit, a layer of the fruit in the form of a gelee, and then a roasted slice of the fruit.  I'd then create a sauce or loose vinaigrette of the fruit, which will finish the dish.   I will most likely add elements of accenting flavors in the gelee, and maybe garnishes of flavor throughout the dish.  Herbs, maybe a cheese, nuts are all possibilities.   I'll play that by ear as the dish progresses in the kitchen.

Ceviche in Shiso Juice

I want to try and turn fresh shiso into a vibrant green juice as a base for a ceviche.   I love the herbaceous flavor of shiso, and think that a bit of olive oil, citrus and spiciness would be an excellent counterpoint to a mild, super fresh, fatty fish.

Peach Mac and Cheese

Some of you know that I love to make fruit pastas.  It sounds weird, but it makes for a nice dish if executed properly.   My idea is to make a peach bechamel.  The bechamel would be the base for a mac and cheese.   I'm hoping the peach flavor will infuse itself into the pasta and create a fresh, bright, subtle flavor that plays off the creaminess of the mac and cheese.

Summer Lobster Wellington

I want to create a light and modern version of a Beef Wellington.   I envision a layer of charred kernels of corn, then a layer of a creamy lobster tarragon mousse, followed by large whole pieces of lobster.  The entire thing would be wrapped in pastry, with a bit of a lobster and corn sauce around the plate.  This dish has drool worthy potential, but also high potential for error.  Especially concerned about making sure the lobster doesn't overcook when the whole Wellington goes into the oven.

Check back here sometime early next week to see the results.

Goat Cheese Smoked Paprika Wonton, Pear Horseradish Sauce

I had previously been an advocate for using purchased wonton skins as a last minute replacement for pasta dishes like ravioli or tortelloni.

But a few weeks ago, I had my last limp wonton skin pasta dish.   No mas.  In my opinion, the wonton skins are too delicate to treat like pasta and a double layer of wonton skins overwhelms the filling.   I guess there is no cheating dough from scratch.

Wonton skins are still useful, however.   Like, for making...urrr...wontons (it's hard being this smart, people.  Don't be intimidated - you'll get there one day).

I look for a simple burst of focused flavor in a wonton.  I chose to go the creamy, smoky route on this day.  I made a goat cheese, smoked paprika puree by simple adding the ingredients to a food processor, along with a touch of olive oil, a bit of cream and a squeeze of lemon juice.  After forming the wontons, it's really just about frying them for a minute or two until golden brown.

The fun for me came while making a dipping sauce condiment.  On this occasion, I had the wontons already made and in the freezer.   I went to the corner store, looking for a few ingredients for the dipping sauce.   I had $5 on me and wasn't in the mood to visit the ATM, so I  limited myself to only a few inexpensive ingredients.  I saw a perfectly ripe pear and thought I'd make a creamy puree, with the pear providing a base flavor of sweetness.   I figured the texture of the pear would also give the condiment some body.

I thought the spiciness of horseradish would be a natural counterpoint for the pear.   I went home and pureed about half the pear, a heaping tablespoon of horseradish, and a touch of dijon together with a streaming drizzle of olive oil until  the condiment thickened.   The dipping sauce has a bit more body than an aioli or mayo, but it still had a thick enough texture to cling to the wontons when dipped. 

I think the pear horseradish combo is a winner, one I'll certainly explore again sometime down the road.   In fact, this would be a killer spread on a sandwich.   Ah....the beauty of leftovers.

Liquid Summer Magic

I've experienced a bit of a beverage awakening this summer season.    The kind of awakening that makes me wonder what the hell I've been drinking in summers past.   I thought I'd list of few of my highlights so far. 

Hitachino Nest White Ale

Seriously, I could drink this beer all summer long.   In fact, I would if I could find it consistently.   Hitachino in a bottle is fine, but Hitachino draft is another experience entirely.    Floral, with hints of orange and citrus, Hitachino Nest White Ale is a Belgian style beer that is at the top of my list these days.   It's made by Kiuchi Brewery near Nagano, Japan, and generally pretty difficult for me to track down.   I've had bottles  of the White Ale at Momofuku,  BLT Burger and Mermaid Inn but have only found it on tap at Marshall Stack. 

Seriously, if someone can point me in the direction of a bar pouring White Ale from a keg in NYC, I'd love you (long time).

2006 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc

I'm a huge fan of New Zealand Sauv Blanc.   For around $12, I think the '06 Kim Crawford Sauv Blanc from Marlborough is one of the best values on the market.  Huge hits of grassiness are balanced with a cutting acidity, making a refreshing yet flavorful wine perfect for a meal or just casual sipping.   I have bought a case to hold me through the summer August.   You can find this wine here.

Berritt's Ginger Beer

I've been obsessed with ginger beer for a while now.  Maybe you've noticed.   I like to drink it at home courtesy of the Berritt's brand.  I can usually find them at Whole Foods or Trader Joe's, though less frequently than I'd like.  Since I'm not usually after a Dark and Stormy in the summer, I like to make cocktails with ginger beer, vodka, seltzer and whole pieces of spicy candied ginger.   I am foaming at the mouth even writing about it.   More about Berritt's Ginger Beer here.

Basil Simple Syrup

A friend took me for a cocktail at a North Fork restaurant called The Feisty Oyster earlier in the summer.   I had a  cocktail that consisted of a basil infused simple syrup,  gin,  seltzer and a sprig of rosemary.  It was one of the best cocktails I've had this summer for sure.   Why am I telling you this?  Mainly because this cocktail is a breeze to make at home.  Here's the recipe for a basil simple syrup - give this a try, it's worth the minimal effort.

Gruner Veltliner

It's relatively embarrassing for me to admit that I hadn't had a Gruner Veltliner before 2006.   Not sure why either, as I enjoy Austrian wines in general.  I love the crisp acidity of Gruner, combined with the deep minerality that lends it a powerful yet floral quality.    Gruner is also a great food wine for the summer.  One of my favorites is the 2005 Hiedler Gruner Veltliner Thal Novemberlese, which you can search for here.

That's just a bit of a highlight reel, certainly not a complete list.  White Burgundies, Pims Cups, Blue Moon, Muscato D' Asti and lots of others are for future discussion.  Would love any of your thoughts or suggestions......

Dreaming of a Tuscan Zucchini Sformatino

Around this time last year, I was wandering Tuscany and Umbria on the culinary tour of a lifetime.  I feel guilty that you haven't seen much of it - from the olive oil tastings, local cheese makers, and fantastic wine producers I visited - there's almost too much to post on this site.

But as I long for those extraordinary experiences in Tuscany, I'll start to sprinkle in a few Italian inspired posts here and there over the rest of the summer.

One of the restaurants we visited for lunch was Osteria Volpaia in the town of Volpaia, near Chianti.   It was a scorching hot day, so we needed to eat light.   A primi that we ordered was a Sformatino al Zucchini, which is essentially a steamed/baked custard made with a puree of zucchini.  The kicker was the beautiful zucchini blossom that encased the custard.   While the dish was rich, the fresh garden flavor of the zucchini made the sformatino a perfect dish for a warm summer afternoon.

I'll never forget our experience meeting the chef after the meal.   Chef Francesco Sabbadini was leaving the restaurant at the same time we were, as he was heading home for the afternoon.   We stopped him and told him how much we loved our meal, especially the zucchini sformatino.  Not only did he talk to us for about twenty minutes, but he took us back to the restaurant, gave us a tour of the kitchen, then wrote the zucchini sformatino recipe down for me to take home. 

After we both got into our cars and drove off, we saw him a few miles later at a stop sign.  He waved back to us with a genuine sincere happiness, as if we'd just bonded over an appreciation of food and his efforts.  Doesn't sound much like the over-hyped, chef driven world we live in today, does it? 

In tribute to this little moment I shared with Chef Sabbadini, I'm passing on Osteria Volpaia's recipe for sformatino al zucchini, which you'll find below.

I would recommending making this sformantino with some toasted country bread, a side salad, and possibly a shaving of parmigiano reggiano to garnish the custard.