foodie nyc

Black Pepper Skate, Morels and Cilantro

At this point, I must be the unofficial morel dork of the interweb.  This is my 30 millionth post on morels and yet only my first of 2007.

While writing this post about a recent skate dish I made, I realized that while I continue to obsess with morels each and every Spring, I've only scratched the surface on morel dorkiness.

For instance, I'd love to head out to Oregon or somewhere dedicated to morel excellence and immerse myself in morel cultivation. I also want to go on a morel hunt.   

I picture weeding through damp misty forests, wearing camouflage and maybe night vision headgear.  I'd be carrying an official looking camo bag that would be stocked with important hunting tools - a bottle of Oregon Pinot, proper stem wear, a small sterno, a little saucepan, salt, pepper, a lemon, forks and a corkscrew that can double as a weapon should we encounter any drunken shitake hunting hooligans.

My morel hunting guide stops in the middle of his tracks and sniffs the air, dramatically.  The birds stop chirping and all goes quite.   I look down and see morels growing near an old tree.  Morel man teaches me a few picking techniques and we gather the pinecomb beauties.  They are plump and beautiful - a few little baby blond morels, a few pimp daddie, jumbo black morels are also in the mix.  We take them down to a local stream and I just barely rinse them, removing any sand.  I dry them thoroughly in the sun as we crack the Pinot.  I clink glasses with the morel hunter and.. HEY....WAIT A MINUTE..  At this point, I realize my morel hunter should now be a female.  (She's super hot, obviously, and wearing a hot camo mini skirt...ok, that's better).  We cheers morels and the genius of her camouflage high heels and begin to fire up the sterno. 

I saute the morels in butter on slow heat with salt and pepper, then add a squeeze of lemon juice after a few minutes.  We then eat the morels straight from the pan, enjoying the efforts of my morel hunters' genius (and crazy hottness).  She tells me my passion for morels is inspiring and we kiss passionately, but unfortunately my camo face paint smudges all over her and freaks us both out a bit.

Right. 

So, this needs to happen.  Hot morel hunters from Oregon with a passion for camo and Pinot should email me immediately to arrange a visit.

Until someone convinces me otherwise, I am fully committed to poaching morels per my usual method.  For this dish, I pair the beauties with the richness of skate.  I firmly believe that morels should not compete with many flavors, so I simply sauteed the skate in a bit of leftover pancetta drippings from a previous course, enhanced by only black pepper, salt and a squeeze of lemon juice before removing from the pan.  Believe it or not, I think the fresh burst of cilantro in this dish is pretty special.  Certainly it needs to be used sparingly with morels, but just a few leaves accent the richness of the flavors nicely.

Dulce de Frozen Grapes

I am not accomplished in the dessert world.  As you've probably noticed, there are approximately zero posts or references to dessert around these parts. This is a dessert free zone.

I can do some basic desserts and make killer ice creams, but in general, my personality isn't suited to following detailed recipes or weighing out ingredients to exact measurements. 

A little bite of sweet at the end of a meal is certainly understandable, but to be honest, the idea of saving room for dessert is preposterous to me . I max out my stomach space on the savory side of the meal.   I have been known to save room for cheese, but that's about it.  Not that I don't appreciate the pastry arts, I just prefer a bubbly Muscato d' Asti and maybe a slice of creamy cheesiness drizzled with condiments.  Or maybe just the Muscato.

But since I'm a people pleaser at heart, dinner at my place these days concludes with frozen grapes.  Not only are they a refreshing and light way to conclude a meal, but the flavors of the grapes seem to concentrate when frozen.  The texture of the frozen grape is very satisfying and no doubt an excellent treat for the upcoming global warming summer that lies ahead.

As you've seen on this site before, I have stuffed frozen grapes with foie gras as a summer appetizer.  Over the past few weeks, I have been experimenting with frozen grapes as a simple conclusion to a meal.

I've attempted frozen grapes coated with Bliss Maple Syrup, which was nice but the maple was a lost on the grape (despite adjusting the amounts of maple used). 

Another frozen grape variety I've made (and eating as I type this) is coated in a cayenne pepper infused honey.  Spicy, sweet, floral flavors precede the frozen blast of grape flavor, which I found very intriguing.  I haven't received second opinions on this one (read: I horded these alone late at night, drooling, standing in my underwear in a pitch black kitchen with Hall & Oates playing in the background!?!?), so I can't confirm this would be a widely accepted opinion.

But the best combination I've made to date (confirmed by multiple sources, all of whom were fully clothed and within properly lit environments) are frozen grapes covered liberally with Dulche de Leche from Argentina.  The sweet, rich creaminess works perfectly with the frozen grape. 

Simply freeze the grapes in a single layer in your freezer.  After a few hours before serving, mix a few heaping tablespoons of the dulce into the frozen grapes.   The best method is to mix the dulce into the grapes with your hands, as you want a liberal coating of dulce on each grape.  I place the grapes back in the freezer for an hour or so before serving, just so the dulce and grape form into a single entity. 

I'm open to any other flavor combinations....send them in!

Foodie NYC Restaurant Notebook: April 2007

Some recent restaurant thoughts and experiences to share with you.....

Public - A recent dinner at Public was one of my culinary highlights over the past few months.  I love the wine list at Public.  Open minded diners can explore a range of Pinots from New Zealand, many of which are affordable and very tasty.  An appetizer of foie gras with a corn pancake and black vinegar, blueberry reduction was simply outstanding.  A snail and oxtail ravioli entree really blew me away - huge, rich, smoky flavors made for an excellent pairing with the NZ Pinots. Getting back to Public for brunch is at the top of my to do list.

Mercadito - I live a few blocks away from Mercadito and tend to pop in for the beer batter fish tacos frequently.  But recently we went for dinner and covered much more of the menu.  I am a passionate lover of ceviche.  Without doubt, I'd say the best ceviches I've had to date were from Chef Douglas Rodriguez when he has at his peak years ago at Patria, OLA, etc (what's he up to, btw?).  The three ceviches I had at Mercadito were of that quality.  Perfectly balanced, well-textured and barely cooked fish made for explosively fresh tastes and textures.  "Flavor bombs" were how these ceviches were described at the table.  A large, whole grilled red snapper entree was also perfectly moist and char grilled. 

The New Version of Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar - I'd been to the original Jack's just once.  I loved it and as you can see, it inspired one of my better culinary efforts a few years ago.  The new version of Jack's is almost like a mini version of Degustation, but with a few tables around the bar.  In two visits over the past few months, I've been nothing short of impressed with the food at the new Jack's.  A butter poached lobster dish was rich, tender and luxurious, while a simple spaetzle truffle mac and cheese dish was homey and satisfying.  A lobster profiterole dish was great on one occasion and only good on the next.  The new Jack's is flying under the radar as Degustation is (deservedly so) getting much of the buzz within the Lamb empire.

Minca - This place can be called Momofuku lite, in my opinion.  Lite in the sense that menu is not as varied, they don't have those amazing pork buns and don't feature Berkshire pork like Momofuku.  Otherwise, the ramen and noodle based dishes are just excellent.  The shrimp gyoza are absolutely cravable.  Sitting at the bar, you are right next to the guy preparing your ramen and it's certainly a site worth watching.  I frequently head here for a solo dinner, as there's a decent amount of cooking entertainment to fend off boredom.

Koca Lounge - Really great drinks are being made at Koca Lounge.  I had a super soju martini infused with chili.  Ceratinly one of the more memorable and inspiring drinks I've had recently, though I suspect it's too spicy for 75% of the population.  The taro fries are a reason to visit this restaurant as well - they are literally addictive and phenominal.   We had a hot pot with perfectly flavored broths, accompanied by very high quality dippings like thinly sliced rib eye, large prestine shrimp and a wealth of vibrant veggies.   I wonder how the restaurant will do in the warm months considering the hot pot theme, but I hope this place can hang in there. 

Osteria del Circo - I can't tell you how impressed I was with the passion of Mauro Maccioni, one of the owners of the restaurant and the Le Cirque empire.  Yes, I read the Amateur Gourmet experience which slightly confirmed some of the stereotypes I'd formed against the Le Cirque restaurants in the past.  I went to Osteria with an open mind, however, and was overwhelmed by the passion Mauro has for the authentic, traditional cuisine of his heritage.  He brings back little treats from his excursions to Italy that are worth calling him over to discuss - all you have to do is express interest.  There is little doubt that he'll go back to the kitchen and craft you something special. After a dialogue with Mauro about the salumi I experienced in Tuscany, he arranged serving a slice from the very shop I visited in Chianti, which they happen to carry for personal consumption in the restaurant.  It's refreshing to see someone this passionate and open to sharing his culture and food with customers. 

Fried Mint Crusted Tuna

I've sung the praises of chef Michel Richard and his recent cookbook, Happy in the Kitchen, previously on this site.

One idea that struck me in his cookbook was a technique that crusted lamb in fried basil.  I found myself revisiting the picture of this dish, as the bright green fried basil contrasting the pink medium rare lamb made for stunning dish.

I tried crusting lamb with fried herbs a few times over the past few months, often with great results.  There was no doubt the concept was tasty.  A burst of herbaceous flavor - crackling with texture - was a welcome crust and received great reviews from guests.  I was photographically challenged during both of those occasions, so this site has been long overdue for a fried herb crusting.

I randomly went with tuna this time, solely for the desire of having fish for dinner.  The process here is pretty simple. I fried some mint in small saucepan  in olive oil for only 30 seconds.  After draining the mint and salting it immediately, I ground the herbs with some bread crumbs in a food processor until fine.  The mint should double the bread crumb in proportion.

Richard coats his lamb with egg yolk to ensure the fried herb crust adheres.  This technique works well, but I chose to go au natural for the tuna.  I rolled all sides of the fish in the fried mint crust and seared each side for about 30 seconds in an olive oiled, non stick pan.  The goal here was not to cook the fish, but rather to get the crust to adhere and become one with the tuna.

A dipping sauce of soy, toasted sesame seed oil, a bit of olive oil, lemon juice and a squeeze of siracha made for a nice accompaniment.  However, this technqiue almost begs for enjoyment without a sauce or vinaigrette. 

As expected, the burst of mint flavor and crackling texture is nothing short of fantastic.   This is a technique that will no doubt be part of my arsenal indefinitely. 

Ramp, Goat Cheese, Pink Peppercorn Omelette

It's ramp season again.  I'll spare you the long soliloquy on my love of ramps.  After buying a small garden of them recently, I had some leftover tops and bulbs the morning after a recent dinner.

After coming in from a morning of tennis, I looked in the fridge and realized what an amazing day was ahead of me.  If I could start every day with ramps in the morning, I'd be a happy dude.

The key to my recent omelette success is the square nonstick griddle pan.  I love the long, skinny omelettes the pan produces.  I started by crushing about a teaspoon of pink peppercorns and toasting them in a dry pan for about 1 minute or so.  I then sauteed the ramp bulbs in a bit of olive oil and salt for about 5 minutes on medium heat.  As I waited for the ramps to cook, I whisked the pink peppercorns into a mixture of 2 eggs and 1 egg white.  I like the addition of an egg white into my omelette - it ensures a light fluffiness without sacrificing the richness of the yolks.

Just when the ramps are al dente in texture, I added the green ramp tops to the pan and followed a minute later with the egg mixture. I  crumbled in some fresh goat cheese just before rolling the omelette and sliding it onto my plate.

The combination of flavors in this brunch treat was stunning to me.  The pink peppercorn provides a floral quality that marries perfectly with the creamy goat cheese and the richness of the eggs.  The ramps accent this floral richness with the unique garlic/onion flavors I crave this time of year.

Plenty of ramp and pink peppercorn geekiness in the archives for your perusal.

Banana Guacamole, Smoked Paprika Cod, Granny Smith Ginger Juice

Sorry for the outage around here lately.  I've just moved for the second time in six months, but this is going to be home for the unforeseeable future.

The good news is that my new home has a kickass kitchen.  Couple that with my new digital camera and my prospects of returning to the quality food shots of yesteryear appear promising.  I have tons of foods shots in the can for upcoming posts, so I'll try to make up for my absence with a barrage of dishes for you.

Last week, I literally had the worst guacamole of my life at Les Enfants Terribles (along with many other horrendous dishes...insert barfing noise here).  It was a banana guacamole, which I found very intriguing. However, after arriving at the table, the texture reminded us of...hmmmm...how do I put this? If I had a little baby, fed this baby avocado and banana, and said baby promptly barfed it up all over me...well, then you'd have a perfect resemblance of the texture and taste of the banana guacamole at Les Enfantes.  (I just made a reference to baby puke on a food site...nice!).

I set out to make a better version of the banana guacamole.  I stuck to the basics of the traditional guacamole, featuring red onion, cilantro and lime juice (I don't use tomatoes in guac..dunno why).  But I added some finely chopped ripe banana at the end, adding another element of chunky contrast and a hint of sweetness.  I've been enjoying banana guacamole as a condiment for fish. The above photo (from my new kitchen) is smoked paprika seared cod in an apple ginger juice.

You remember my juicing hyjinx from last year.  I'm obsessed with juicing as a simple, explosive broth for fish dishes.  I juiced an entire granny smith apple along with a large nugget of ginger.   The juice doesn't need to be cooked or reduced - it's perfectly peppery, tart, fresh and bursting with flavors on it's own.  A little salt and you're good to go.

The moral of this post? Avoid the baby boot at Les Enfants Terribles.  Make banana guacamole. Juice everything in your fridge.  Send me expensive wine as a thank you. 

Mounting Wine Geek Difficulties

It goes without saying that I tend to spend a lot of time weeding through wine lists when I'm having a big meal at a restaurant. But a recent issue I encountered is just how difficult it is to geek-out on a wine list while on a date.

Conversation flow is obviously important during the first round of getting-to-know-you dates, but my first instinct when the wine list arrives is to plow my way through it in order to come up with a wine game plan for the night.  I began to debate in my mind the merits of NZ Pinot or something bolder, like an Aussie Shiraz.  I began to remember some of the excellent NZ Pinots I enjoyed last year and thought it was such a shame that I'd been neglecting them recently. I then reminded myself that my life sucked as I didn't have a wine cellar at this stage of my life.  I called myself a wine hack or something similar. By the time that all happened, I realized that my nose was buried in the wine list and my date was wearing an expression that seemed to question my status as a participating member of this galaxy. 

Dating tip to self - only minimal wine geekiness can be allowed on the first couple of dates!

Anyhow, I realized that the NZ Pinot on the list called Mt Difficulty was more than fate.  The enjoyable difficulty that I was having in choosing the wine for the night would be resolved by The Mt. Difficulty 2004 Pinot. 

Seriously, this wine is absolutely delicious and recommend you track it down straight away.  This NZ Pinot does a nice job of balancing the finesse of a traditional Pinot with a new world, full, deep finish and an excellent, earthy nose.  To give you a sense of how big this Pinot is, the wine perfectly matched my entree of a snail, oxtail ravioli with smoked paprika oil.  I also anticipate this wine would be an excellent pairing for morels, so I will be certainly tracking this Pinot down for upcoming Spring drinking plans.