Foodie NYC Restaurant Notebook: April 2007

Some recent restaurant thoughts and experiences to share with you.....

Public - A recent dinner at Public was one of my culinary highlights over the past few months.  I love the wine list at Public.  Open minded diners can explore a range of Pinots from New Zealand, many of which are affordable and very tasty.  An appetizer of foie gras with a corn pancake and black vinegar, blueberry reduction was simply outstanding.  A snail and oxtail ravioli entree really blew me away - huge, rich, smoky flavors made for an excellent pairing with the NZ Pinots. Getting back to Public for brunch is at the top of my to do list.

Mercadito - I live a few blocks away from Mercadito and tend to pop in for the beer batter fish tacos frequently.  But recently we went for dinner and covered much more of the menu.  I am a passionate lover of ceviche.  Without doubt, I'd say the best ceviches I've had to date were from Chef Douglas Rodriguez when he has at his peak years ago at Patria, OLA, etc (what's he up to, btw?).  The three ceviches I had at Mercadito were of that quality.  Perfectly balanced, well-textured and barely cooked fish made for explosively fresh tastes and textures.  "Flavor bombs" were how these ceviches were described at the table.  A large, whole grilled red snapper entree was also perfectly moist and char grilled. 

The New Version of Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar - I'd been to the original Jack's just once.  I loved it and as you can see, it inspired one of my better culinary efforts a few years ago.  The new version of Jack's is almost like a mini version of Degustation, but with a few tables around the bar.  In two visits over the past few months, I've been nothing short of impressed with the food at the new Jack's.  A butter poached lobster dish was rich, tender and luxurious, while a simple spaetzle truffle mac and cheese dish was homey and satisfying.  A lobster profiterole dish was great on one occasion and only good on the next.  The new Jack's is flying under the radar as Degustation is (deservedly so) getting much of the buzz within the Lamb empire.

Minca - This place can be called Momofuku lite, in my opinion.  Lite in the sense that menu is not as varied, they don't have those amazing pork buns and don't feature Berkshire pork like Momofuku.  Otherwise, the ramen and noodle based dishes are just excellent.  The shrimp gyoza are absolutely cravable.  Sitting at the bar, you are right next to the guy preparing your ramen and it's certainly a site worth watching.  I frequently head here for a solo dinner, as there's a decent amount of cooking entertainment to fend off boredom.

Koca Lounge - Really great drinks are being made at Koca Lounge.  I had a super soju martini infused with chili.  Ceratinly one of the more memorable and inspiring drinks I've had recently, though I suspect it's too spicy for 75% of the population.  The taro fries are a reason to visit this restaurant as well - they are literally addictive and phenominal.   We had a hot pot with perfectly flavored broths, accompanied by very high quality dippings like thinly sliced rib eye, large prestine shrimp and a wealth of vibrant veggies.   I wonder how the restaurant will do in the warm months considering the hot pot theme, but I hope this place can hang in there. 

Osteria del Circo - I can't tell you how impressed I was with the passion of Mauro Maccioni, one of the owners of the restaurant and the Le Cirque empire.  Yes, I read the Amateur Gourmet experience which slightly confirmed some of the stereotypes I'd formed against the Le Cirque restaurants in the past.  I went to Osteria with an open mind, however, and was overwhelmed by the passion Mauro has for the authentic, traditional cuisine of his heritage.  He brings back little treats from his excursions to Italy that are worth calling him over to discuss - all you have to do is express interest.  There is little doubt that he'll go back to the kitchen and craft you something special. After a dialogue with Mauro about the salumi I experienced in Tuscany, he arranged serving a slice from the very shop I visited in Chianti, which they happen to carry for personal consumption in the restaurant.  It's refreshing to see someone this passionate and open to sharing his culture and food with customers. 

Comments

[Gladys]

This entry alone is a good enough reason to live in New York.

[mike]

great post, joe. will check out minca for sure.

[Steamy Kitchen]

One of Public's former sous chefs is now working at my friend's restaurant - last month I came in and told him "Foie Gras please. Nothing else. just the F.G." - he made me F.G. with blueberry reduction and it was SO @#!>!@% amazing. Now I know where he got that combo!