The Irresistable Cinta Senese

My idea of good eating somehow involves a piece of pork.   I have generally learned to appreciate virtually all cuts and preparations, with the exception of pigs feet.  While in Tuscany and Umbria this summer, I decided I would attempt to O.D. on salumi.  But not just any salumi - I would specifically attempt to O.D. on wild boar salumi and the famed Cinta Senese breed.  I just can't find wild boar salumi that tastes as magnificent as it does in Italy and have never had a piece of Cinta Senese in the U.S.  I'm too lazy to investigate whether the Cinta Senese is allowed for import to the U.S., but considering I've seen it on zero menus or in any markets, I'd bet it's not.

What the hell am I talking about, you ask? The Cinta Senese is a breed of pork from the Siena/Chianti region that had been on its way to extinction, but recently raised back to sustainable levels.  They are known for their characteristic black hair with a white band around the belly. 

While in Montalcino, I ordered a tasting of different salumi preparations from the Cinta Senese.   The prosciutto was pink, slightly orange and very delicate...almost supple (oh, shut it).  Thin slices of lardo were off the charts - velvety, a hint of herbs and exploding with porkiness.  It was an unforgettable experience - one that I wished I could take back home.

A few days later, Bernie and Cristina from Shopping Safaris Tuscany took me to the grandaddy of all salumi shops in Chianti - Macelleria Falorni in Greve.  If this shop were in the U.S., I would quit my job and stand in the store all day, drooling on myself and other customers, quivering for my next dose of Cinta salumi.  The salumi at Falorni is packed in a brilliant manner - about five thin slices are sealed in a small airless envelope, with about five envelopes per package.  This allows unhealthy and undisciplined people like myself the option to enjoy a few pieces of the salumi on-the-go without exposing the rest of the salumi to air.

After purchasing enough salumi to make my arteries hate me, I went about my days saving my salumi stash in the hopes of smuggling the treasures back to NYC.  In fact, I forgot about them until I was on a three hour train heading from Florence to Rome.  I had rushed out of the hotel the morning of my departure, so I didn't have a breakfast before the train ride.  After a few hours watching the beautiful country pass me by, I was attack dog starving. The next thing I knew, as if being guided by the salumi gods, my trembling hand was unzipping my bag and excitedly fumbling around for the Cinta salumi.  I held the pack in my hand, thrilled with my newfound snacking options. 

I tried to open one of the sealed envelopes, but it was impossible.  I looked around the train - there was a young woman sitting across the aisle but she was gazing out the window and seemed unaware of my existence.  So I did what any desperate food obsessed loser with minimal amounts of self respect would do...I tore into the pack and opened it with my teeth.  Desperate times call for desperate measures. I peeled off a slice of the Cinta Senese and stuffed it into my mouth.

I think I may have temporarily blacked out or something, because after a minute or so I came to and found that all of the salumi had disappeared and my mouth was full with what appeared to be the final piece.  My hands were very oily as I did not have a napkin of any sort, and I may very well have been having some sort of foodgasm.  I turned my head to notice the woman across the aisle staring at me, appalled and sympathetic all at the same time.

I would do anything to be back on that train with a pack of Cinta Sienese in my hand.  The stuff is worth embarrassing yourself over, that's for sure. 

Comments

[Tana]

I sent this to my Italian butcher friend, and the guy who raises pigs for him at TLC (Tastes Like Chicken) Ranch.

Thank you for the education and the laugh.

[lara]

joe,i want to make out with you. is that wrong?

[Constance]

Now we have a mission to find this salumi for our specialty food store. BTW I laughed so hard I almost fell down and broke my leg while reading the I Hate Sandra Lee comments. On another note, Truffle Honey is awesome on Venison as a glaze or even with Rack of Lamb and I've found the best type is Tentazioni white truffle honey from Italy.

Constance Jesser
Jacksonville Mercantile