2006 Best and Worst NYC Restaurant Trends

I'm going to be doing a series of posts over the next few weeks featuring my Best and Worst lists of the year, covering a range of food related topics.  Sure, this is a cliched idea but I hope you find the content fresh.  I have a few fun topics I plan to cover, but for now, I'll focus on highlighting key NYC restaurant related trends that I've personally found interesting over the past year or so. 

The Best Stuff

Bigger Isn’t Better

With the launch of Del Posto, Morimoto and Buddahkan, I began to worry that the American perception of ‘bigger is better’ would begin to build momentum for new and future restaurants in the city. Thankfully, this trend seems to be short lived.  I understand that space is luxury, but I favor intimacy and the personality that comes out in the smaller to medium sized restaurants we have. To me, a restaurant is a brand. It’s hard to establish a connection with your consumers if you feel like just another person in a sea of tables.

The Rise of Spain

Tapas have given reason for people to enter the country’s cuisine, but only on a broad level. In the past year, authentic Spanish tapas restaurants like Tia Pol continue to expose people to traditional renditions of Spanish cuisine. Hopefully, this trend will continue to grow even further. I personally rank Spain as one of the best cuisines and wine countries in the world and there are many Spanish regions and traditional cuisines yet to be explored.

Welcome Back, 11 Madison Park

11 Madison had been such an underachieving restaurant to me, almost from its inception. I found it such a shame – excellent space, excellent location, excellent service, great wine list. But the food had always been very uninspired to me. Enter Chef Daniel Humm from the West Coast, who in my opinion has quickly become one of the top 5 chefs in the city who are actually in the kitchen most nights of the week. Humm’s cuisine is creative, approachable, complex yet simple. These contradictions make dining fun at 11 Madison again.

BLT Empire Expansion

I think BLT Fish, Prime, Steak and Burger are all winners and while I’m hoping the formula doesn’t stretch itself to thin, the BLT franchise is making a welcomed impact on the cuisine of the city.

Bloggers as Restaurant Consumer Advocates

While I can’t bring myself to take pictures in the dining room, I appreciate those who do. The detailed pictures and accounts of restaurant menus and experiences are always previewed on a variety of sites like eGullet, Restaurant Girl, Augieland and Amateur Gourmet. While I recognize they are only one person’s opinion, I enjoy reading numerous entries about the same restaurant on sites across the web to note trends or themes that help form my decisions about where I want to eat next.

Bringing the Farmer to the Table

We’ve gone from highlighting the source of meats, fish and vegetables on the menu to entire restaurants based on the concept of featuring local farmed ingredients (Cookshop, Blue Hill Stones Barns). Restaurants like Applewood are bringing in farmers to meet the consumer, another great step in the right direction. Now when will the next step come to life - like restaurants that only feature sustainable foods? This can be pretty exciting for all of us.

The Worst Stuff

Parity

There is a clear formula for success right now in terms of opening a new restaurant. As we all know, the trick lies in execution, of course. But the formula is growing tired for me and has led to the opening of an explosion of ‘me-too’ restaurants in 2006. The formula bores the living shit out of me. Sexy interior, trendy bar scene, dim lights, electronic generic tracks, large menus with different price points (something for everyone), pretty good food that’s generally forgettable a week later. A PR machine that starts with constant Eater buzzing, receives a 1 star review from Bruni and is a non-factor a year later. I tend to monitor but stay away from the fray. Do I really care about The Waverly Inn’s secret phone number, all in an effort for a pot pie I can get anywhere else? Does it really deserve constant buzzing? These are ‘me-too’ restaurants that will attract lots of buzz and will fade into oblivion. You can detect passion and originality in the cooking, menu and personality in the ownership or staff of a truly great restaurant. Sure, they need all of the other factors in the formula to thrive as well, but these principles are what make them special. In fact, many of my favorites tend to stray from the formula in small, quirky and sometimes dramatic ways.

The Everything Menu

The menus continue to expand. Five little bites to start the meal. The raw bar. Sushi. Ten small plates. Five salads. Ten appetizers. Ten entrees. Five sides. I can’t wait until this trend reverses itself and we get back to the small, focused menus that restaurants know with certainly they can executed to their utmost potential. I may be on my own on this one, but I appreciate focus and consistency vs. range.

Mexican

Zero progress on one of the most misunderstood and untapped cuisines in NYC.

Dining as Status

Restaurant gossip sites have tapped into our need to know the latest and greatest about the NYC dining scene. But in my opinion, they’ve gone way too far. NYC is always going to be about the last and greatest, but the daily posts hyping the secret phone number of Waverly Inn, the minute by minute liquor license status of E.U. or launch parties at Gordon Ramsay is very much the equivalent of People magazine or US Weekly to me. What’s next – a Mario Batali sex tape? Make. It. Stop.

Lack of Trust in Food Journalism

There’s always John Mariani and The Danny Meyer Blue Smoke revelation. Add to that my continued belief that reviewers and writers have relationships with chefs and restaurateurs that cloud their reviews, judgment and in many cases are the inspirations for the pieces they write. There’s also the line that I can’t seem to understand between PR and journalism. I’m pretty skeptical about much of what I read in 2006, both online and in print and unfortunately, I don’t see this changing. What the NYC restaurant consumer needs is an advocate and trusted voice for the consumer – someone who will remove themselves from the PR and special agenda buzz machines and give it to the people like it is - sans bullshit.

Truffle Scams

I would say that of the 7 out of 10 times I spring for the fresh truffles on a menu, they are a let down. Not fresh, not vibrant, not worth the price. Restaurants that invest in the whole fresh truffle intend to sell every last shaving, even when they are not at their prime or are well past. They wouldn’t do this with any other ingredient, so why would they with the most expensive they offer? At Cru recently, after asking how fresh the white truffles were, the server actually brought a huge truffle out for us to smell. It wasn’t as pungent or special as expected but no doubt it would be shaved for the next month for $100 a plate.

The Downslide of Gramercy Tavern

I personally think Gramercy and 11 Madison have switched positions in the NYC restaurant chain. Even though Tom Colicchio and team were doing homey, comfort cooking, it was done with creativity and perfection. I think what is being dished out at Gramercy right now is good but not great – this is based on two experiences I’ve had there in 2006. Gramercy should be knocking the socks off of people. Currently, I believe this special restaurant is just coasting. I think GT needs a major shake up in the kitchen and hope 2007 brings much needed inspiration.

Comments

[tami]

thanks for this post! helpful for my upcoming visit. did you get the email i sent you? i'm in NYC on the 30th...and asked for your expert opinion on where to go and what to eat :)

[elizabeth]

yes, yes, yes! For the love of Giada's cleavage and truffle honey, where is the good Mexican food in this city! It is a vast and eclectic cuisine, with ingenious flavors-- chocolate and chili, masa and lime, cumin and potato, corn and cilantro! There are rich sauces and various meats and interesting vegetables and fresh herbs, it is fantastic, and yet there is a gaping hole in the NYC restaurant scene where good Mexican should be!

[Chicken Fried Gourmet]

although I do not live in New York I saw this restaurant on Fine Living's Opening Soon - http://www.suenosnyc.com/ I think it is pretty good. Anyone been there ?

Great post, look forward to the rest

[janelle]

i couldn't agree more with your 'dining as status' statement (which, unfortunately, exacerbates the issues detailed in 'parity' and contributes to 'lack of trust in food journalism'). the comparisons to 'people' and 'us weekly' pretty much say it all. OUCH.

[F. Maps]

I agree. A great Mexican restaurant is a rare find in Manhattan, indeed. I have to walk crosstown from 1st Ave to 5th Ave for my Mexican food fix, but the food is so great, the trip's worth it.

[Lisa (Homesick Texan)]

I think truffles are still a mystery to the majority, and people don't know how they're supposed to taste and smell. And unscrupulous restaurateurs take advantage of this--not everyone has been to Alba in October.

Hear, hear about the sad state of Mexican food in the city! Crema, Suenos or wherever...it's all so disappointing.

[mike]

i totally agree with you on the dining as status and gossip comments. over the past year + , i think it's getting even worse....

[tricolores]

Agreed on the fact there aren't Mexican choices. But why is it that no one ever mentions Mi Cocina in the West Village as a good option? Do people just not like it or is it just not buzz-ing enough?

[Erica]

I wanted to let you know how much I enjoy your blog. I've even added a link on my own blog! Love it!

[Tim]

Actually, and just very quietly I adore Waverly Inn. I don't care for the secret phone number etc, but suspect that when it all calms down it will be a great place to eat.

[aja]

just some news
The chef of Pipa and Lucy has left.
That place needs revamping.
They're staff needs to strictly monitored.

[sdaFdsaf]

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CIPRIANI DOWNTOWN REST
376 WEST BROADWAY, MANHATTAN 10012
212-343-0999

Violation points: 52

Inspection Date: 03/04/2008

Violations were cited in the following area(s) and those requiring immediate action were addressed.

Sanitary Violations
1.) "Choking first aid" poster not posted."Alcohol and Pregnancy" Warning sign not posted. "Wash hands" sign not posted at hand wash facility. Resuscitation equipment: exhaled air resuscitation masks(adult & pediatric), latex gloves, sign not posted. Inspection report sign not posted.
2.) Non-food contact surface improperly constructed. Unacceptable material used. Non-food contact surface or equipment improperly maintained.
3.) Accurate thermometer not provided in refrigerated or hot holding equipment.
4.) Lighting inadequate. Bulb not shielded or shatterproof.
5.) Plumbing not properly installed or maintained; anti-siphonage or backflow prevention device not provided where required; equipment or floor not properly drained; sewage disposal system in disrepair or not functioning properly.
6.) Food not protected from potential source of contamination during storage, preparation, transportation, display or service.
7.) Personal cleanliness inadequate. Clean outer garments, effective hair restraint not worn.
8.) Hand washing facility not provided in or near food preparation area and toilet room. Hot and cold running water at adequate pressure not provided at facility. Soap and an acceptable hand-drying device not provided.
9.) Appropriately scaled metal stem-type thermometer not provided or used to evaluate temperatures of potentially hazardous foods during cooking, cooling, reheating and holding.
10.) Shellfish not from approved source, improperly tagged/labeled; tags not retained for 90 days.

DOH Home

My Health

My Community's Health

Health Topics A-Z

Job Opportunities

Press Releases

Health Bulletins and Other Publications

About DOHMH

Event Calendar

Contact DOHMH

Restaurant Inspection InformationHome < Health Topics A-Z < Restaurant Inspection Information
Search on:

Name Zip Code


Browse:
Alphabetically Bronx
Neighborhoods Brooklyn
Violation Points Manhattan
Golden Apples Queens
Staten Island
Resources:
Scoring Defined
Glossary of Terms
Golden Apple Initiative


CIPRIANI DOWNTOWN REST
376 WEST BROADWAY, MANHATTAN 10012
212-343-0999

Violation points: 52

Inspection Date: 03/04/2008

Violations were cited in the following area(s) and those requiring immediate action were addressed.

Sanitary Violations
1.) "Choking first aid" poster not posted."Alcohol and Pregnancy" Warning sign not posted. "Wash hands" sign not posted at hand wash facility. Resuscitation equipment: exhaled air resuscitation masks(adult & pediatric), latex gloves, sign not posted. Inspection report sign not posted.
2.) Non-food contact surface improperly constructed. Unacceptable material used. Non-food contact surface or equipment improperly maintained.
3.) Accurate thermometer not provided in refrigerated or hot holding equipment.
4.) Lighting inadequate. Bulb not shielded or shatterproof.
5.) Plumbing not properly installed or maintained; anti-siphonage or backflow prevention device not provided where required; equipment or floor not properly drained; sewage disposal system in disrepair or not functioning properly.
6.) Food not protected from potential source of contamination during storage, preparation, transportation, display or service.
7.) Personal cleanliness inadequate. Clean outer garments, effective hair restraint not worn.
8.) Hand washing facility not provided in or near food preparation area and toilet room. Hot and cold running water at adequate pressure not provided at facility. Soap and an acceptable hand-drying device not provided.
9.) Appropriately scaled metal stem-type thermometer not provided or used to evaluate temperatures of potentially hazardous foods during cooking, cooling, reheating and holding.
10.) Shellfish not from approved source, improperly tagged/labeled; tags not retained for 90 days.

DOH Home

My Health

My Community's Health

Health Topics A-Z

Job Opportunities

Press Releases

Health Bulletins and Other Publications

About DOHMH

Event Calendar

Contact DOHMH

Restaurant Inspection InformationHome < Health Topics A-Z < Restaurant Inspection Information
Search on:

Name Zip Code


Browse:
Alphabetically Bronx
Neighborhoods Brooklyn
Violation Points Manhattan
Golden Apples Queens
Staten Island
Resources:
Scoring Defined
Glossary of Terms
Golden Apple Initiative


CIPRIANI DOWNTOWN REST
376 WEST BROADWAY, MANHATTAN 10012
212-343-0999

Violation points: 52

Inspection Date: 03/04/2008

Violations were cited in the following area(s) and those requiring immediate action were addressed.

Sanitary Violations
1.) "Choking first aid" poster not posted."Alcohol and Pregnancy" Warning sign not posted. "Wash hands" sign not posted at hand wash facility. Resuscitation equipment: exhaled air resuscitation masks(adult & pediatric), latex gloves, sign not posted. Inspection report sign not posted.
2.) Non-food contact surface improperly constructed. Unacceptable material used. Non-food contact surface or equipment improperly maintained.
3.) Accurate thermometer not provided in refrigerated or hot holding equipment.
4.) Lighting inadequate. Bulb not shielded or shatterproof.
5.) Plumbing not properly installed or maintained; anti-siphonage or backflow prevention device not provided where required; equipment or floor not properly drained; sewage disposal system in disrepair or not functioning properly.
6.) Food not protected from potential source of contamination during storage, preparation, transportation, display or service.
7.) Personal cleanliness inadequate. Clean outer garments, effective hair restraint not worn.
8.) Hand washing facility not provided in or near food preparation area and toilet room. Hot and cold running water at adequate pressure not provided at facility. Soap and an acceptable hand-drying device not provided.
9.) Appropriately scaled metal stem-type thermometer not provided or used to evaluate temperatures of potentially hazardous foods during cooking, cooling, reheating and holding.
10.) Shellfish not from approved source, improperly tagged/labeled; tags not retained for 90 days.

[improve your family dynamics]

Go read biographies of people you respect, people who do positvive things and attain huge success. Learn from the master not the self help guru who is always in debt.

[nick]

Bring fucking FARMERS to MEET the guests?

Get the fuck atta here with this elitist bullshit. Thats just the kind of bullshit that 10 years, no, MONTHS from now people will say "who the fuck thought THAT was a good idea"?!You probably loved nouvelle cuisine you pantywaist....

[KA]

Hi,

I was reading your blog and wanted to share with the readers of your blog a fantastic website for locating restaurants in queens NY. The website is called www.eatinqueens.com and has listing of restaurants in queens with printable menus.

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[SONY battery]

The battery lasted approximately 6 hours before recharging.

[battery]

The LCD, however, had a few dead pixels - never saw this before. Tried returning for exchange and had to put up quite a fight. Anyone else seen this?

[laptop battery]

a feature in which editors and reporters are helping find the best news and views on the Web for the convenience of our readers.

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[Pet First Insurance]

I don't think there will ever be much trust in food reviews. Too many people out to score some free grub in exchange for a favorable word.