Why I Can't Write Restaurant Criticism

I'm been trying to muster the energy to write another Restaurant Notebook post.  Considering I've  been saying that to myself for months, I decided to stop pretending to like writing about my restaurant experiences. I just don't. 

It's not that I don't have anything to report.  I went to Blackbird and Topolobampo in Chicago last week, which was one of the best back-to-back dinner nights I've had recently.  In the past month, I've had one of the best meals I've had this year at 11 Madison Park, felt painfully underwhelmed at Gramercy Tavern, bummed and craved a trip to Babbo after an expensive night at Del Posto, all followed by some exciting hits and misses at WD50.....and it keeps going. 

This would surprise everyone who knows me, since I an generally discussing restaurants frequently.  I get plenty of requests for recommendations, which is never a problem as I generally have a list of five places where I want to dine on a particular night.  (I can't believe I just typed 'dined' .  My bad.). 

I firmly believe this site should feature nice food photos and, to be honest, snapping pictures of food during an amazing meal is simply a low priority for me. My favorite meals and experiences are just that - experiences.  Delicious, thoughtful, creatively prepared food paired with a heady wine are moments to charish. On top of that is the amazing, fun and interesting company I'm usually lucky to have.   A camera at the table seems totally out of place to me.

Not to mention, I generally don't think random photos of restaurant food does a chef and kitchen team the justice their creations deserve. Poorly lit food photos from restaurants rarely convey any of the appeal we experience.  Plus, there are plenty of other sites I read frequently that do this much better than I ever would.  Let's be real - if I read, let alone write - another blog post about Robuchon NYC I'm going to barf on my keyboard (no offensive to any of you that have  - I am commenting on the redundecy of reading the latest and greatest reviews  that all come out at once - right at the opening).

Instead, I'll start to write about dishes or tastes I've had recently that leave me longing for them days or weeks later.  This series will be called, lamely, Cravings.  I hope to do them regularly, as I expect that documenting these dishes and tastes will inspire some of my future cooking.  And maybe interesting for you to read (did you catch that italic on maybe? Good, just checking.). 

(Oh.  Sorry.  Above is a picture of Catherine Chiarella.  She is a little food lover in the making.  During one of the days at the villa in Umbria, I remember watching Catherine devour a very ripe Umbrian peach as a stream of juices ran down her cheeks.  When she finally removed herself from the peach and looked up at me, I asked her if she loved food. She smiled at me and gave me a resounding, mouth-full-of-peach, yes. I love the very small piece of pasta she is rolling in this picture.....too funny. Also, a photo of me wishing someone would give me a wine refill at a tasting in Chianti.  I know, I know....I just ooze class.)

Comments

[mike]

good idea - will be following!

[Beef]

Brava Chiarella!! I enjoy your writing soooo much Joe. Better than being there.

Beef

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My favorite meals and experiences are just that - experiences. Delicious, thoughtful, creatively prepared food paired with a heady wine are moments to charish.