Fav Leflaive

In the need of a last minute restaurant option while walking around the SoHo area, we landed at Aquagrill.  I hadn't eaten there in close to 5 years (other than an oyster pitstop), mainly because there are more exciting menus to seek out these days.  But being in the area and not willing to wait at Blue Ribbon or plunk down a wad at Fiama, I went with what I knew to be a safe choice with Aquagrill. 

Maybe I'll discuss the restaurant soon, but for me the real standout of the experience was the 2003 Olivier Leflaive from Saint Aubin.  This White Burgundy from Puligny-Montrachet is a 1st Cru, therefore not even close to the top of the line Grand Cru Montrachets that Leflaive produces.  I've tasted some Grand Cru Burgundies both young and old and they are generally worth their hefty price tag.  But I decided that for $50 ish at Aquagrill, we'd try this 1st Cru along with the seafood/spring focused menu.  It was an excellent wine.  Buttery and rich, yet with nice acidity, this wine could have been confused with a modern California Chardonnay.  I know French Chardonnay lovers would bitch-slap me for saying that, but whatever.   Many recent California Chardonnays I have tasted have been very sensitive about the over-oakiness feedback they have been receiving over the years, having replaced the oakiness with an acidic, bright finish to balance their richness.  While I found this Leflaive less buttery and even a touch nutty in comparison to a traditional Cali Chard, I would be bullshitting you if I told you I could tell the difference in a blind tasting.  Anyhow, I loved this wine and tracked it down for $30 a bottle.  Buy a few and enjoy this over the course of spring with dishes like poached morels and ramps.  I also plan on drinking this wine with fresh, creamy corn over the summer.  You NYCers can find this wine here.