Menu from Our Last foodie

Modern Takes on French Classics

Six Course Tasting Event

March 13, 2004

                                                

Braised Lentil Spring Roll

truffled gruyere fondue

Pistou Bizarro

vegetable ham stock, garlic confit, glazed veggie spoons, mint tarragon pesto

Skate and Mushroom Paupiote

curry mushroom broth, mushroom puree, haricot vert, charred yellow pepper

Coq Au Coconut

coconut lemongrass braised chicken, celery root remoulade, almond corn cake

Cassoulet, Sort of

braised pork shoulder, braised flageolets, merguez sausage, duck breast, carrot reduction, fried parsley

Homemade Tarragon Ice Cream

Reeses Pieces Madeleine

1^st Course

Braised Lentil Spring Roll

truffled gruyere fondue

I’ve been obsessed with making fried spring rolls at home.  The lentils were braised in a manner typical of traditional French lentil soup, but pureed and used here as a contrast to the crispy spring roll.  The truffle and gruyere fondue make a nice French style dipping sauce.

Classic Wine Tasting Pairing:

N.V. Nicolas Feuillatte Reserve Particuliere Brut Premier

“The non-vintage Reserve Particuliere Brut Premier Cru is a blend of 40% Pinot Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir, and 20% Chardonnay. This is a deliciously floral, light-bodied, wonderfully subtle yet effervescent Champagne that stood out in my tastings as one of the finest values in the non-vintage category.” - Robert Parker

Modern Wine Tasting Pairing:

Bouvet NV Brut

Loire, Chenin Blanc Sparkling

"A well-balanced, off-dry bubbly from the Loire Valley that's intriguingly earthy and toasty in flavor. Has a soft, delicate feel and a light finish." -90 points, Wine Spectator

2^nd Course

Pistou Bizarro

vegetable ham stock, garlic confit, glazed veggie spoons, mint tarragon pesto

Traditional pistou is a vegetable soup finished with pesto.  While I enjoy it in its traditional form, I added a touch of smoked ham hock to the vegetable stock for added flavor.  I also chose a mix of tarragon and mint for the pesto to best match with the bacon flavors in the stock.

Classic Wine Tasting Pairing:

1985 Mouton-Rothschild
Mouton-Rothschild
Pauillac

“The rich, complex, well-developed bouquet of oriental spices, toasty oak, herbs, and ripe fruit is wonderful. On the palate, the wine is also rich, forward, long, and sexy. It ranks behind both Haut-Brion and Chateau Margaux in 1985. I am surprised by how evolved and ready to drink this wine is. Readers looking for a big, boldly constructed Mouton should search out other vintages, as this is a tame, forward, medium-weight wine that is close to full maturity. It is capable of lasting another 15+ years. This estate compares their 1985 to their 1959, but to me it is more akin to their 1962 or 1953. Anticipated maturity: Now-2012. Last tasted, 10/97.” - Robert Parker

Modern Wine Tasting Pairing:

Chereau-carre Muscadet Chateau De Chasseloir 2002

Loire, Muscadet

"This Loire white offers a rare explosiveness for the Melon grape, with concentrated lemon peel, grapefruit, honeysuckle, mineral and brine notes. The racy acidity carries it effortlessly, while a second wave of fruit emerges on the finish. - 90 Points, Wine Spectator and # 39 on the Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2003.

3^rd Course

Cod and Mushroom Paupiote

curry mushroom broth, mushroom puree, haricot vert. charred yellow pepper

The mushroom broth is made like a consomme.  The mushrooms are poached, strained and then used to make the puree.  Curry is a great pairing for mushrooms, but it also adds a subtle depth of flavor to the dish.   All of these flavors are captured and steamed with the skate inside a parchment package. 

Classic Wine Tasting Pairing:

1985 Certan de May

Pomerol
Bordeaux Blend

“This is a flamboyant wine with a gaudy aromatic profile consisting of cedar wood, smoke, licorice, jammy black fruits, and Asian spices. In the mouth, it is fleshy and meaty, with a streak of roasted herbs running through the sweet, jammy, opulently-textured black fruits, earth, and oak. Low in acidity and voluptuous, this wine has reached its peak of maturity, where it should remain for at least another decade. Anticipated maturity: Now-2008. Last tasted 9/97.”- Robert Parker

Modern Wine Tasting Pairing:

Patrick Lesec

Cotes Du Rhone Rubis 2001

Rhone

Grenache, Syrah

"Another outstanding offering is the 2001 Cotes du Rhone Rubis. Aged in equal parts tank, neutral wood foudres, and used barrels, this blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah was made completely from destemmed fruit. This deep ruby/purple colored 2001 offers up a sweet perfume of blackberries, scorched earth, licorice, and beef flood. Rich and chewy, it is a delicious Cotes du Rhone to drink over the next 5-6 years." 90 Points - Robert Parker

4^th Course

Coq Au Coconut

coconut lemongrass braised chicken, celery root remoulad, almond corn cake

Coq au vin, braised chicken in red wine, is a tried and true French classic.  But I enjoy braising it with more aromatic and savory ingredients, such as lemongrass and coconut.  The celery root adds a clean, bright flavor while the corn cake acts as a vehicle to sop it all up.

Classic Wine Tasting Pairing:

1975 Palmer

Margaux
Bordeaux Blend

“The 1975 Palmer has consistently been one of the top wines of the vintage. The color remains a dark ruby with no signs of amber. The wine reveals plenty of sweet fruit in the fragrant bouquet. Although more tannic than most top vintages of Palmer, this is a full-bodied, rich, concentrated wine with the vintage's toughness and high tannin well-displayed. Yet I believe it possesses enough sweet fruit and extract to stand up to the tannin. Shockingly, the most developed bottle of 1975 Palmer I have tasted was from an Imperial several years ago. From my cellar, the wine is still very young, and in need of another 5-7 years of cellaring. It has another 20+ years of evolution. Tasted 2/96.” - Robert Parker

Modern Wine Tasting Pairing:

Bressy Masson Cdr Paul Emile Rasteau 2001

Rhone

Proprietary Blend

"The top cuvee is the spectacular 2001 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau Cuvee Paul-Emile. A dense ruby/purple color is followed by sumptuous aromas of kirsch liqueur, chocolate, espresso, and spicy wood in the background. This impressively built, full-bodied, concentrated 2001 is delicious, complex, and ageworthy. It can be drunk now, but will be even better in 2-3 years; it should last for 10-12 years." - 90 Points - Robert Parker

5^th Course

Cassoulet, Sort of

braised pork shoulder, braised flageolets, merguez sausage, duck breast, carrot reduction, fried parsley

I almost feel guilty fussing with a dish that is almost already perfect in its original form.  While staying true to the original lamb, duck and pork aspects, I think changing the preparation of each can actually help make the cassoulet a bit less intimating than the hearty original. 

Classic Wine Tasting Pairing:

1975 Haut Brion
Pessac Leognan
Bordeaux Blend

“Blame me for completely misjudging this wine early in its life. I have since purchased it at auction because of its price/quality ratio. Haut-Brion, which can begin life as a soft, light wine, never appeared to have much intensity when tasted beside the phenomenal La Mission-Haut-Brion and La Tour-Haut-Brion. However, over the last 5-7 years that has changed. Either the wine has put on considerable weight, or I was off-form the many times I tasted it when young. The wine has developed the hauntingly complex, tobacco, roasted herb, singed leather, smoky, sweet, fruity nose of a great Haut-Brion. Full-bodied and intense, with noticeable ripe tannin, this is a wine of considerable richness and intensity. It offers delicious drinking after 1-2 hours of decanting, even though noticeable tannin remains. This wine is capable of another 15-20 years of cellaring. Yes, I did indeed underestimate this wine. I tasted it a half-dozen times in 1995 and at each tasting it was a formidable wine. Do not be surprised to see this rating go even higher, as I do not believe the 1975 Haut-Brion has reached its pinnacle. Impressive! Reported 2/96.”- Robert Parker

Modern Wine Tasting Pairing:

Mas de Aveylans “Prestige” 2003

Languedoc

Syrah

"This beautiful, dense purple-colored Syrah reveals classic blackberry and currant notes intermixed with notions of licorice as well as pepper. Medium to full-bodied and chewy, with nicely integrated acidity and tannin, Mas des Aveylands consistently turns out one of the world’s best value-priced Syrahs. The finish lasts at least 20 seconds, impressive for a wine of this price. Drink it over the next several years." - 90 points, Robert Parker

6^th Course

Homemade Tarragon Ice Cream

Reeses Pieces Madeleine

The paring of cream and tarragon was a memorable experience as a savory dish from a recent trip to Paris. Herb ice creams are my favorite to make – the freshness and purity of the herbs and cream is hard to beat.

Classic Wine Tasting Pairing:

1990 J.C Pichot Vouvray Moelleux Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette

“Shows all the complexity you expect from a sweet wine of this age, with burnished leather, lemon cream, orange peel, marzipan, green tea and almond flavors. Long and lush, with layers of papaya and mango emerging on the finish. Seamless. Gorgeous. A re-release for this wine, which was not rated previously. Drink now through 2005.”- Wine Spectator

Modern Wine Tasting Pairing:

2003 Domaine Durban Beaumes de Venise
Domaine Durban

Rhone, Muscat

“Arguably the finest of the sweet Muscat Beaumes de Venise offerings, this estate-bottled 2003 exhibits orange marmalade and apricot liqueur characteristics in its honeyed, perfumed personality. Full-bodied, with loads of sweetness as well as fine underlying acidity, it is fuller and warmer than usual because of the vintage’s higher alcohol. Enjoy it over the next 1-2 years.” - 93 points, Robert Parker

Comments

[jenblossom]

WOW. That all sounds amazing!

[james]

looks fantastic, wish i could have made it.

[mikeB]

hey joe, seriously loved the food and wine from this foodie. we also had a great time at out table and met some great people. bravo! see you at the next one.