foodie nyc

Iron Chef America Analysis II

After viewing most of the episodes since my first Iron Chef Analysis, I have a few highlights and low lights to share.

Scott Campbell proved me correct in  my previous analysis - he was really off the mark at best.  He never really presented a challenge to Molto. In fact, I thought he was awful.  Huffing and puffing around the kitchen in an effort to place as many ingredients on the plate as humanly possible, he actually received one of the lowest panel scores I've seen to date.  Again, this show would benefit from better challengers and more meaningful matchups.

I can't wait to see Cat Cora.  Not because of the whole "first woman Iron Chef" angle, but because Alex Lee, formerly of Daniel, is going to give her a real workout.  I think he could beat most Iron Chefs, but somehow it's hard to see the "first woman Iron Chef" losing. Either way, I do think I'll make an effort to catch this one.

Sideline reporter Kevin is even more clueless than previous commentors in my last report noted.  In a rerun of the Bayless v. Flay battle, I've heard Bayless tell Kevin: "WWWOOH...Can I get a better pronunciation of the peppers, please?" Kevin, looking sheepish says something to the effect of : "Sorry Chef, teach me how to say them."  Dude.  Kevin.  He uses the same chilies in his books and TV show. Ever think of doing some research before the show? We need a more interesting sideline reported who can really add some life to the show.

Aside from these critiques, I still enjoy it and think the next season could be even better after they work out some of these kinks.

Curried Mushroom Broth, Mushroom Puree, Fontina

I had a ton of whole cremini mushrooms left over from our last foodie event.  I decided to do with them what I enjoy best during the winter season.  I place them in a large pot and barely cover them with water.  Simmering them slowly for about a half hour yields a clear and intense broth.  Best of all, the strained mushrooms left over from the stock are excellent pureed with butter, salt, pepper and an herb of choice. On this particular night, I add some curry to the broth, as well a nob of butter. I had a creamy fontina lying around, which I added to the top of the mushroom puree.  Upon eating, the cheese falls into the soup and melts, creating a simple yet satisfying counterpoint to what I consider an excellent and homey winter treat.  In retrospect, I would have reserved a few of the raw mushrooms and served them here sliced and sauteed, creating three different preparations of the crimini.

Note: The mushroom broth was something I picked up from Charlie Trotter's PBS show The Kitchen Sessions. Ahhh, PBS.

Zucchini, Celery Root, Pear, Gruyere, Pine Nut Salad

I had zucchini, celery root, pine nuts, a pear, parsley and some Gruyere in the fridge.  I needed to find a way to make a salad out of them to accompany a main course I had made. Turns out this ended up being an amazing combination, as the techniques I used created the fullest flavor for the ingredients involved. 

The pear was soft and uncooked.  The zucchini was al dente and seared on high heat with lots of garlic and olive oil. The celery root was shaved thin and blanched, thus soft and mellow. The toasted pine nuts and the crispy fried parsley added deeper flavors and crunch to the dish, while the Gruyere and a squeeze of lemon added a much needed punch.

This spontaneous salad made from leftovers confirmed a valuable lesson for me - brief cooking treatments to ingredients is a simple way to change their textures and add unexpected surprises to what could have been a very bland salad.

Parsnip Crab Soup

It took a meal at Craftbar for me to become acquainted with the combination of parsnip and crab.  It's a perfect match in this soup.  The parsnip is creamy, but also has an underlying sweetness and earthiness.  The crab is sweet and luscious, while the apple and mango provide another level of sweetness with fresh, crunchy textures that further enhance the silken qualities of the soup.  A chardonnay would be nice with this soup, but we went with a light bodied pinot.  You've got to give this one a try!

Go to my recipe at Gothamist for all the details....

Playing with Pesto

My favorite herb combination for pesto these days is tarragon and parsley.  Along with the standard pine nuts, parmigiano reggiano and extra virgin olive oil, this blend of herbs is less intrusive than the basil standard.  I use it when I need a burst of fresh herbal flavor that could compliment pork, for instance.  Basil just wouldn't work in that instance. I used a similar combination to garnish a smoked ham hock and vegetable soup.  Tarragon was perfect for the pork and the parsley toned it down but gave the soup a fresh burst of the herbal flavor I was looking for...

My Favorite Condiment....

...for sandwiches, eggs, french fries and most anything dippable is Sriracha. Sriracha, commonly used in Thailand, is made from sun ripened chilies which are ground into a smooth paste along with a load of garlic. Has a big spicy kick to it, but somehow the chili and garlic are not lost.

Look for the kind with the big rooster - they feature all natural ingredients. I find Sriracha in most Asian type groceries and recently saw it in Whole Foods.

Menu from Our Last foodie

Modern Takes on French Classics

Six Course Tasting Event

March 13, 2004

                                                

Braised Lentil Spring Roll

truffled gruyere fondue

Pistou Bizarro

vegetable ham stock, garlic confit, glazed veggie spoons, mint tarragon pesto

Skate and Mushroom Paupiote

curry mushroom broth, mushroom puree, haricot vert, charred yellow pepper

Coq Au Coconut

coconut lemongrass braised chicken, celery root remoulade, almond corn cake

Cassoulet, Sort of

braised pork shoulder, braised flageolets, merguez sausage, duck breast, carrot reduction, fried parsley

Homemade Tarragon Ice Cream

Reeses Pieces Madeleine

For the Arsenal: Garlic Confit

Thomas Keller's cookbook, Bouchon, inspired me to make garlic confit. It's so simple and easy to make.  Just take about two heads of garlic and submerge in olive oil, until barely covered in a large pot. Place on very low heat and let barely bubble for about 30 minutes. 

Let it cool.  You now have garlic confit that can be mashed or diced and used to accent a dish of chicken or fish AND you have a garlic oil to flavor salads, pasta, etc. Store with the oil covering garlic in the fridge for a week or so.  We cooks need all the help we can get.  Simple recipes like this that you can turn to in a pinch are life savers.

Wasabi Pea Crusted Chicken

I must admit, I had low expectations for the wasabi pea crust idea for this chicken.  But the mild heat from the wasabi and the crunchy, earthy texture of the green pea made for an excellent pairing for a brined chicken breast.  The goat cheese pasta is a tangy, creamy contrast for the bold flavors of the wasbai green peas.  Best yet, it took me only 30 minutes.

Check out my full recipe at Gothamist.

Obsessed With Skate

My fish of the moment is skate.  I order it almost whenever I can.  Crusted and charred with a soft flaky interior, skate is very easy to make at home.  It's also very affordable. 

Rather than the brown butter and caper varieties most often on NYC menus, I documented in my trip to Blue Hill Stone Barns that their mustard, citrus sauce skate has been my favorite to date.

I dusted the skate with dried mustard and sauteed it on high heat for a nice crust, then placed it on a pool of reduced blood orange juice. 

Check out my full recipe via Gothamist.....