Blue Heaven

After Per Se, the restaurant that has been at the top of my wish list has been Blue Hill at Stone Barns.  If you haven’t heard of it, the Barber family behind Blue Hill in NYC opened a restaurant on their working farm in Upstate NY, dedicated to using farm raised vegetables and local produce to create a more direct route from farm to plate.

This concept has always been a dream of mine.  In my fantasy world, I’d also have a working farm that produced organic ingredients.  This would inspire a daily and weekly tasting menu at my dream restaurant, a la Stone Barns.  Oh yeah - throw a vineyard in there as well while you're at it. 

I was lucky enough to be taken to Blue Hill at Stone Barns as part of a celebration dinner a few days ago.  Not only was the 45 minute car ride worth it, but it indeed achieved its mission of creating a true difference in taste and experience.

After Per Se, my meal at Blue Hill Stone Barns has been one of the best I’ve had in the past year.  I've documented some of my favorite dishes and tasting notes below...

We did the three savory course tasting, followed by dessert a al carte. The menu is constructed to allow you to choose courses from any of four categories on the menu.  As the four of us each had a different course,  I had the chance to taste 12 separate dishes.  I'll take you through some of the most noteworthy:

MAINE CRABMEAT AND PANTHER SOY BEANS
farona beets, preserved apricots and hazelnuts

my notes: the crab was in a creamy ball placed on top of a deep green puddle (not a puree), which tasted of the earthy beans (in a way similar to parsley).  The beets were in the form of a syrup and streaked into the crab ball.  Didn't get much of the other ingredients, but the creaminess and freshness of the crab and earthy bean puddle was a great combination.

rating: B+, portion a bit small and missing other ingredients

BRAISED RABBIT IN CHESTNUT "SOBA" NOODLES

my notes: the braised rabbit was shredded, soft and tender.  the soba noodles were made of chestnut flour and had a deeper flavor than typical soba.  The both was a chestnut and rabbit braise reduction, with a bit of soy.  While it strayed true to the typical Asian flavors you'd associate with something of this description, it had a depth of flavor from the braising and chestnut that made it unique.

rating: A-.  Perfect for a rainy afternoon.  Comforting and soothing, yet original and playfully inventive.

HOMEMADE CAVATELLI
guanciale and broccoli puree

my notes:  this would have been my favorite course if the homemade cavatelli were not overly al dente.   however, the cavatelli were sparely dressed and sitting on a bright green loose puree and sauce.  it had such a vivid, veggie flavor that balanced nicely with the porky guanciale and the grated parm on top.

my rating: only a B for execution, but the concept was an A- and something I plan on experimenting with myself.

SKATE WING

citrus mustard sauce

my notes:  favorite course of the night.  the skate did not have the charred crust that I've become accustom to, but it didn't matter.  It was juicy yet firm, and the citrus punch of the bright orange sauce was balanced nicely with the mustard flavors.  The combination sounds bizarre, but it was a welcome relief that reminded me to experiment with more that just butter with skate.

my rating: A.  my idea would be to crust the skate with dry mustard before sauteing.  definitely going to give that a try.

POACHED CHICKEN BREAST
farro and roasted carnival and kabocha squash

my notes: off the charts.  the breast is thinly sliced and fanned on top of the farro.  the farro is toasted and offers a deep, nutty flavor that was very enjoyable considering I haven't had much of it before.  the showstopper was the poached chicken.  at first, it seems as if it were uncooked.   It is not pink, but it appears limp and soft in texture.   it is fully cooked and but it's so slowly and gently poached that it becomes beyond succulent. 

my rating: A.  new technique to explore, new ingredient to explore with the farro.  inspirational.

BABY LAMB
braised and roasted, amaranth crust and brussels sprout leaves, horseradish broth

my notes:  the roasted lamb was perfectly cooked and succulent.  the pile of braised lamb was over the top in gaminess for me.  it reminded me of marrow.  others enjoyed it much more than I did.  what took the dish to a new level was the horseradish broth.  deep and light brown, it had a spiciness but depth that matched well with the lamb.  i could tell that it had the clarity of a consomme before enriched with butter.

my rating: A-.  Tough to beat.  tempted to experiment with the technique of creating a consomme from a single bold ingredient...